Tag Archives: Nepal

Street scene, Birtamode, Nepal

25 Jun

Birtamode, Nepal


Cows are standing in the middle of the street in front of us. Chewing on cud as the road traffic swerves around them.

We arrive by motorbike, and chat by the roadside before moving towards our favourite evening hangout. Most of the vehicles that past us are human powered – people walking trailers, bicycles, rickshaws.

We move across the dusty courtyard, taking up our seats our seats on the bench outside, waiting to be called in for dinner.

There is a dusty courtyard between the restaurant and the road, and as the sunsets the random assortment of students, grandmothers and dogs move about in a kind of dance, sometimes interacting, sometimes not.

I see the man who is Nepali, but looks so much like a foreigner that I tried to speak to him in English when I first met him. I am reminded how much people here look like members of my own family.

Baby goats scamper around feet. They are waiting to be fed left overs – and the owner of the restaurant happily abides – patting them affectionately on the head, like dogs.

The restaurant is family run, the wife always speaks directly to my face in Nepali. It is amazing to me how much I can understand what she is saying. I love that even though I have been coming there on and off for 2 months, she still does this – continually refusing to give up and talk to me through a translator.

The sun is setting behind the trees covered in red flowers. “Not native” I am told.

Like me I think.

Totally out of place, and yet not out of place at all.

Lovings of the week: Nepal – flailing not failing

21 Jun

The deadline for the Nepali constitution recently passed – it prompted my move from the east of Nepal to the capital, and then finally out of the country to Cambodia. Given the political vacuum the country finds itself in now, there has been a media storm this week over whether Nepal should be considered a “failed, or flailing” state.

  • First there was this piece in the New York Times - “If the culture of impunity is not uprooted, neither the elections nor a new constitution can deliver Nepal from slipping further into civil chaos, poverty and lawlessness.”
  • This was counted by a letter to the editor from Nepal’s permanent mission to the United Nations: “We categorically reject the notion that Nepal is on the brink of collapse. We are on the verge of restructuring and institutionalizing the state within a democratic, republican and federal structure.”
  • And finally , then finally the hitback from the Kathmandu Post: “Nepal looks like a failing state from outside because this country has not been successfully coping with the challenges of the modern times. My own feeling is that Nepal is not heading towards being a failing state. The problem is we have short historical memories. What is happening so far is debate, peaceful albeit heated discussions about the structure and modus operandi of the political process, elections, reviving the CA or holding fresh elections. This is a very democratic process. The “ferocious” guerrillas have worked hard with the ‘parliamentary’ parties and disarmed themselves; together they have solved many complex problems. People from different origins and geographical setting are not fighting with each other. They are putting fresh ideas about equality and harmonious state restructuring. A democratically minded President is making calls to parties to work together and find a way out of this impasse. Equally, the other subject of great importance is that Nepal’s big neighbours India and China want these political parties to find their own solutions. They are not putting trade embargos or supporting any groups with money or arms. They are encouraging a return to normalcy. “
From my own limited experience it was very interesting to see how a country operates from one day to the next, with and without a constitution. On the surface everything still worked. The sky did not fall in. The roads were full. Electricity and water supply limped along as normal, business opened their doors for yet another day. I hear of cracks below the surface – the inability to push much needed reform through, a friend who can’t get a work permit despite having worked in the country for 8 years, an NGO who has had more days closed than open for business this year. And yet, Nepal seems like a country that is continuing to limp along, finding a way through the political turmoil, the same way their ancestors found a way through the rugged Himalayas in the past.
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Picture credit: Wikimedia Commons

Lovings of the week: Conducting experiments with cities, insuring people with HIV/AIDs and Nepali street art

14 Jun

Shenzen – charter city

  • Here’s an idea. Let’s say your country is poor and unstable. You know the only way out is to try something new. But how? How about going the way of Philadelphia, Singapore and Shenzen and running a city wide experiment ? The New York Times recently explored this question in their aptly titled Who Wants to Buy Honduras? “In 2009, Romer developed the idea of charter cities — economic zones founded on the land of poor countries but governed with the legal and political system of, often, rich ones.  Romer, who is expected to be chairman, is hoping to build a city that can accommodate 10 million people, which is 2 million more than the current population of Honduras. His charter city will have extremely open immigration policies to attract foreign workers from all over. It will also tactically dissuade some from coming.”
  • Again from the New York Times, a piece on microinsurance and how AllLife, a South Africa insurance product, covers people with HIV/AIDs. “AllLife requires the people it insures to make regular medical visits, get the necessary periodic tests and follow treatment protocols. AllLife’s managing director, says that clients average a 15 percent improvement in their CD4 count — an immune system marker — six months after buying insurance. That improvement may partly be the psychology of seeing their disease in a different way: “If you think you have a terminal disease, you don’t care how you eat and exercise,” said Beerman. “Now I have an insurance company monitoring me. They are very active in keeping me alive.”
  • Check out this creative street art, Nepali style, from right near my hotel. I leave this week to start Good Return’s Sustainable Energy Program in Cambodia.
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Image credit: Lettersfrommitia

Voices from Nepal pre a constitution

21 May

Protests in Nepal

The country is in indefinite “strike” or lock down mode. Political parties have called the strike, to protest aspects of the proposed constitution due in 14 days. (The country is currently operating under an interim constitution).  Where I am car and buses are not allowed to drive, shops and banks are not allowed to open and schools are closed to students. Last week I saw a long line of cars waiting for petrol – many of the other petrol stations had closed down due to lack of fuel. I have been called by my organisation back to Kathmandu.

I’ve been collecting a little of the word from the street over the last week or so.

  • “Nepal is on strike for 15 days out of every month, that is why we are so poor” 15 year old student
  • “Actually no one knows who called the bandha (strike). Just the shops are afraid so they do not open.” Businessman
  • “The banda is for the poor people. The rich people can get the plane or the tourist bus” Tour operator
  • “We are tired of staying home all the time, we want to go to school” 9 and 13 year old students
  • “The school is afraid, that is why they close. No other reason.” Father of 2
  • At the sight of a bus of protestors: “They have no work to do, that is why they are protesting”  Professional
  • “This office is not open to the public so no one knows that work continues during the strike” Office building owner
  • “I saw the bomb explode in Janakpur. Right in front of me. People died. Now I cannot go back there” Businessman
  • “We had to stop our collections because the protestors came and told us we would be punished if we collected” Microfinance professional
  • “The country is in transition and everyone wants their part in it. But the problem is that if you give to one group, you are automatically taking from another.” Engineers
  • “I have to walk 2.5 days to attend a government job entrance exam because there vehicles are not allowed to take to the streets” Professional and Masters recipient
  • “We cannot take you to the airport because cars are not allowed to drive today” Hotel Receptionist
  • “Nepal is like a doll. Everyone is just playing with it”  Tour guide

Just like everywhere, I think people want to be left alone to do what they want without being bothered by a state in turmoil.

Lovings of the week – Nepali food

17 May

Of all the things I love about Nepal, the food (and the tea) have got to be right near the top.

The food is always delicious, it is vegetarian based with meat options (rather than the other way round) and the combination of rice, beans and vegetables seems agree with my body much more than other cuisines. Which means I am often bounding off the walls with energy here.

This post is a collection of a few photos I’ve picked up along the way.

Nepali Spice Rack

Freshly ground fennel seed seems to make it’s way into most dishes.

Gundruk or dried spinach – considered the Nepali national food

“Mountain soup”, made with Gundruk

Veg Thali – a combination of daal (lentil soup), curry, vegetables, pickle and a mountain of rice. We eat this every day, twice a day, and always it contains different vegetables, curries and pickles. If I ate Veg Thali every day for the rest of my life I would be happy.

Cooking gas producer, hard at work (Yes, I am working with biogas here in Nepal)

Bridging Worlds

14 May

Escalator which bridges 5 blocks in Hong Kong

Just 6 months ago I wrote this post about how transitions between locations almost sent me over the edge.

Now I watch myself barely flinch at Chanel bags and $20 cocktails one week, and 18 hours of blackouts and shoeless street kids the next.

I speak to one friend in Australia who just lost a job and ‘hates the job market’, and in the same day, another in Nepal who has been out of work 6 months. One who wishes there was a job market.

In Hong Kong I ride an escalator which bridges 5 blocks, in Nepal I am preparing to walk 18 hours to visit a community with no access to roads.

Recently I spent a day balancing my budget – I am $500 out over 6 months. I barely give it a second glance.

I work with women who take a loan of $350 over a year, which requires 2 visits to the branch office and the signature of a legal guardian.

I speak to my parents who complain about the difficulties of hiring a car overseas.

I look outside to see evidence of the indefinite strike here in Nepal – which in theory includes the closing of all roads for transport – over the lack of a constitution after 2 years of work.

I watch videos of the recent floods in Pokhara, and wonder whether I should change my plans to holiday there. Only to learn that one of my colleagues watched a woman out the back of his house drown in floods when he was 8 years old. She was washing her clothes. He was the one that pulled her out of the river, dead.

I am still affected by these contradictions. The world still feels like an unfair place.

But I can feel myself moving to a place of some acceptance – where the emotion subsides to a place where I am not paralysed by it and I am able to continue functioning.

I feel like I am on a bridge between worlds. I can get off the bridge in either world. But for very different reasons I don’t feel comfortable on either side.

For some reason the place I feel most comfortable is the middle – and I think I’m just starting to getting used to this bridge’s natural vibrations.

<3 of the week: Electricity in Nepal, Grameen’s Progress out of Poverty Index and Obama’s views on Jay-Z vs Kayne

22 Apr
 
Climate Action Campaign in Jhapa, Nepal
  • I think the electricity situation here in Nepal deserves a mention. The bustling town of Birtamode (pop 28,000) where I am currently located gets 6 hours of electricity a day. The National Electricity Authority of Nepal actually has an official load shedding schedule - at the moment we are on 11am-2pm and 11pm-2am. The regional office I am working in works off batteries whenever power is down, but the branch offices just have to wait until the electricity comes back on. I don’t know how to fully describe to you what this means, other than to say that dinners here are either by candle light or buzzing generator and the streets are very dark because there is no electricity for street lighting.
  • I just spend the better part of the week learning about Grameen’s “Progress out of Poverty Index” (PPI) here in Nepal. The tool is very clever in that it uses national census data to develop a list of 10 simple questions which most likely indicate poverty in that country. This works because each person in the census is characterised as above or below the poverty line. Then is just a simple case of taking the questions those below the poverty line were most likely to answer “yes” to. You can then get an accurate measurement of poverty levels amongst groups and individuals. The tool isn’t subjective (i.e we think poor people have no land); it is objective (i.e. the census shows that people below the poverty line almost always report having a thatched roof). Good Return are hoping to support all our partners in adopting the index. This will mean that they will get a much better understanding as to how many of their members are below the poverty line.

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Image:  Some rights reserved by 350.org

Simple questions to ask yourself everyday

5 Mar

Sunrise in Nepal

  1. Have you laughed way too much? Meditated and exercised? Eaten well?
  2. Have you shown someone the l-o-v-e?
  3. Have you worked at your art?
  4. Have you pushed the boundaries and done your hard thing for today?

Microfinance – does it actually work?

30 Jan

A village in Nepal, only accessibly by foot, that asked to be provided with remittance services

Microfinance is the provision of basic financial services to people who might not otherwise be able to access these services.

Winner of a Nobel Peace Prize in 2006, microfinance has long been lauded as the ‘silver bullet’ to poverty. But the industry has come under attack for failing to produce outcomes – and in some cases making matters worse – in the case of mass suicides of supposed overly indebted farmers in northern India.

Two recent books have studied the case for microfinance in detail – and have reached much the same conclusion. Portfolios of the Poor and Due Diligence: An Impertinent Inquiry both argue that microfinance allows the poor to better manage their lives – providing a safe place to save, smoothing income, and allowing them to acquire useful ‘lump sums’ of money.

But despite these benefits, both books point to a lack of evidence that microfinance itself reduces poverty. No study has successfully proven that microfinance alone has shifted any community out of poverty. In Portfolios of the Poor, the authors argue that microfinance needs to move from traditional rigid loan products to flexible savings products*. And interestingly, Roodman in Due Diligence argues that the real strength of microfinance is in the creation of a new industry – driving economic growth and creating jobs. Not necessarily lifting people out of poverty.

In my own experience with Good Return’s microfinance partners, I have seen examples of the benefit microfinance provides.

In the Philippines, women use ‘emergency’ loans to rebuild homes after storms and to pay for healthcare costs that might otherwise send a family to ruin. Others told me they only joined the institution to access life insurance that they wouldn’t otherwise be able to buy – “for my family, when I die”, they told me.

In Nepal women asked our partner microfinance institution to come to their village so they could access remittance services. Family members could then send funds home, without the time and security risk associated with carrying the money themselves.

And here in Indonesia, men have grouped together to take out a loan. They use the money to seize a rare opportunity – to buy land and extend their palm oil plantation. Their increased supply increases their bargaining power and means they can ‘erase the middle man’. “Now we get much better prices for our goods”.

Of course it would be easy to leave this argument as a series of anecdotes of the benefits.

And not mention the disgruntled customers who complain about significant interest rates, delinquent group members whose loans they must cover and long meetings which waste their time.

But for me, the point about microfinance is made in the developed world.

Given the choice, who keeps their life savings under a mattress? Given the choice, who doesn’t insure their property against frequent natural disaster? And who doesn’t feel nervous carrying a month’s salary on an overnight bus?

For me, poverty has many faces, many problems that need to be solved. (Lucky that there are so many of us!)

There is never going to be a single, simple answer. And we should be wary of anyone who says that there is.

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* As a point of interest – it is much harder for a microfinance institution to get permission to hold savings rather than just give loans. This is in the interests of client protection – for a loan the bank much trust the client. But for savings, a client must be able to trust the bank.

On my birthday and the Thanksgiving Challenge

20 Nov

As part of this whole having a 40 year mission thing, I’ve been interested in what it means to actually give.

Part of what started me thinking about this was Sascha Dichter’s generosity experiment, where he decided to say YES to everyone for a set period of time. He decided on a month – and ended up with some great insights. Including how Seth Godin hilariously asked him for money, knowing that Sascha couldn’t say no.

Sascha took this experiment and turned it into “Generosity Day” – which happened for the first time on Valentine’s Day of this year. People were asked to say “YES to everything that is asked of you, all day long”. And knowing that Generosity Day is a very personal thing, and very difficult to “talk about it without having experienced it”, Sascha has announced a warm up to Generosity Day 2012 – the Thanksgiving Challenge.

Try it next week, for the week or just for one day.  Consider it your Generosity Day Dry Run, so that you can speak with gusto and authenticity when the big day arrives.

So what am I going to do?

I’m going to use my birthday on Thursday (LOVE birthdays!) to say YES to absolutely everyone that asks. And for the rest of this week I’m going to say YES to the first price offered by every local driver here in the Philippines.

(More of a relief than anything else, I assure you!)

In addition, my family have been asking what they can give me. It’s trickier for them than normal this year – they’re in Australia, I’m in the Philippines and my kindle is in Cambodia (long story).

Perfect I thought. This year I’m going to pick a charity for my Birthday AND Christmas presents.

And so which charity?

I spent some time looking around Give Well’s page – these guys are obsessed with finding top quality charities – but noted that they are just about to release new recommendations for the year.

And I also realise that part of the purpose of Generosity Day is not just about rationale – it’s also about emotion.

I have always been deeply affected by human trafficking – not least since reading the beautiful but terrifying Sold by Patricia McCormick and spending time with World Education and other friends who work with trafficked women in Nepal.

And then this from the NY Times grabbed me this morning. The personal sacrifice astounds and inspires me. (Update: an even better article is here)

This year, I’m asking my family to donate to the Somaly Mam Foundation – I’m also going to try and visit them when I travel to Cambodia in a month’s time.

(And as my gift back to my family – YES, here is a tax deductible alternative, should that be how they choose to give).

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As a side note – words which echo my sentiment on on why a mission is better than a plan

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